Sea and myth on the Rome-Naples route. First stop-over: Terracina
By Donatella Acquaviva
Did you know that halfway between Rome and Naples there is a little bit of heaven? I am lucky, because I have the opportunity to go to this paradise whenever I want since I live 20 minutes away, in Fondi.
While driving along the via Flacca, you find a breath-taking panorama that will captivate you. The huge rolling hills on your right and stunning seaview on your left will convince you to stop there and visit the nearby villages.
I heartily recommend that you visit Terracina, Sperlonga and Gaeta, and for many reasons. With a wealth of history, culture and natural wonders, they are a treasure trove for history and sea lovers. They should be at the top of any visitor’s list. Belonging to the Riviera of Ulysses, which stretches 110 kilometers from the beach of Latina to the Garigliano River, they evoke the myth of the wandering hero from Ithaca. In Homer’s tale, Ulysses left many traces along this arching coastline.
These places have gained the reputation of being expensive to visit, but this is a legend too. There is something for every budget and this makes them great travel destinations, both for young budget-conscious travellers and those who like to enjoy the finest things in life.
Here I give some advice about what to see and how to make your holiday as inexpensive or as pricey as you want.
The best time to visit is at the end of May or September or at the beginning of June or October, when the crowds have gone, the prices are lower and the weather still allows you to swim.
Do you want to follow the traces of Ulysses with me? Ok, let’s start… from Terracina, where the legend tells us that Odysseus lost his friend Elpenor, who was buried there.
Terracina is also related to another myth. Here, in the 1st century B.C., the Romans built the Temple of Jove Anxur, the divine protector of the city. Perched high above Monte Sant’Angelo, the temple is in an ideal position to take advantage of the tranquil and astonishing scenery overlooking the sea, the promontory of Circeo, and the city below.
The ticket to visit the area costs 7 Euros (4 Euros for children), but the landscape is priceless. Furthermore, every night from June to September it is possible to see a 40-minute show of sounds, lights and films recreating the original atmosphere of that sight, by paying 12 Euros (7 euros for children).
When you leave the temple, don’t forget to slip down to the nearby historic centre. Despite the fact that I live near Terracina, I had never visited it until last summer and it was a worthwhile discovery. You will find yourself in a square dominated by the municipal hall and the Cathedral of San Cesareo – built on the ruins of a Roman temple – and at the entrance of many narrow streets with characteristic houses and boutiques.
Indulge in a delicious ice cream at Gelateria Pupo and walk along via Roma, full of shops on both sides. Near the fountain there is an excellent restaurant – Il Vicoletto; eating their risotto with scampi is the rarest of pleasures and definitely one to savour. As an alternative, you can stop over in one of the many pizzerias.
to be continued…
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